The Bhagarati and upper Mandakni

The next drainage we headed up was the Bhagarati River. This is the largest tributary of the Ganga (Ganges) river, the holiest river in the Hindu Faith. Pilgrims travel from all over world to pray, drink and bath in its holy waters. When ones life comes to an end bodies are cremated along the banks of the holy Ganga and the ashes are spread in the holy waters.

On the road up the Bhagarathi we met some Sadus who were returning from a pilgrimage up to the Gomukh Glacier the principle source of the Ganga. The sadu many barefoot will walk for months accepting donations to help them on their long and arduous walks from one holy spot to the next.

A sadu smoking on his chillum along the banks of the Bhagarati river.

We opted for a put in near the town of Raitha paddling a 20 K section of river down to Maneri. From the Road, the river appeared to be a mellow class IV big bouncy section of whitewater.

The boys negotiating the first rapid stretching a kilometer long.

Cooper dropping into the first rapid.

Once on the water we quickly realized the true power of Bhagarathi. Huge exploding holes and powerful waves were constantly knocking us off line and threatening to drop us into the numerous man eating holes lurking at every horizon line. Will digging hard to punch through the corner of a large hole.

Often you would enter a rapid and fight your way across the river to avoid the powerful forces of the main current in the center of the river. Cooper leads the charge fighting to keep the kayak straight as the boys follow suit.
Cooper dropping into one of the larger rapids on the Bhagarati.

Will Stublefield scouts the large pour overs trying to find a line admist the watery chaos.

Kev showing the boys how its done.

Cooper follows suit.

Talking on your phone while driving large transport trucks on narrow one lane crumbling roads through the mountains are all just part of the excitement of everyday life in india.

After the Bhagarathi we continued our eastern movement heading towards the Mandakni river. On my previous trip I had paddled a lower section of the river. It proved to be an awesome stretch of whitewater and after having to climb out of several gorges we opted not to explore the upper remote stretches of the river with out a bit of research. This year we had done our homework. From Sopraya the river seemed to maintain an average gradient of of 37 meters per K for some 20 kilometers or so. Getting a late start at the put in we opted to take overnight gear and spend the night in the gorge.

Paddling a few hundred meters we arrived at the sight of a new damn being constructed. Luckily the heavy monsoon had washed away much of their progress and we were able to paddle what was probably the last descent of this classic run.

Taking advantage of the construction sight we lowered our boats down where they were building the barrage opting not to paddle through the dynamite blasted diversion cave.

After a long day and it starting to get dark we began looking for a flat spot in the gorge. We searched several spots finding mostly thick boggy jungle vegetation. After several attempts Kev reported good news he found a spot for us to camp. Being the only flat spot for 20 k's some locals had made their very own cricket pitch.

Our kayaking gear rapidly became way more fun to play with then cricket. Can you blame them i'd rather play with my helmet then have to play the worlds most boring sport its even worse than baseball.
Day 2 of the Mandakni and Toby plugging into a strong lateral.

Kev boofing the super fun and soon to be dead water of the Mandakni. RIP Mandakni I'm glad we got to meet. Enjoy your plasma screen TV's India I hope its worth it.